J. Ullmann & Co. Chinese Market Enamel Pocket Watch

Inventory number: PW1809033

Circa 1890, 53mm, 18K gold hunter case with painted enamel and pearl-set bezel. Made for the Chinese market. Two enamel scenes depicting a portrait of a Western lady and an exotic hunting-scene. Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, and minute repeater functions. J. Ullmann & Co. purchased the Bovet brand in 1918 and traded in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tianjin during that time.

Glossary of Material Terms

Enamel

A vitreous substance whose main component is silica（also may have borax, lead, and potash）mixed with oxides (transition metals) that create a vast palette of colors. Enamel can be used to decorate metal surfaces, gold, silver, and copper.

Painting on the Enamel

A gold or copper plate is coated with base enamel then fired. The colors are in the power of form which the enamel-painter dilutes as and when they are needed using an oily or semi-oily essence, before applying them with a fine brush. Each color is dried then fired before the next is applied. A work can be fired numerous times.

The Chinese market pocket watch is the pocket watch that specially made for the Chinese market in the 18th to 19th centuries by European watchmakers. It was originally used as a tribute to the Qing Dynasty royal family and spread among the public gradually. Many cases were generally made of silver, brass, gilt brass or silver, and decorated with painted enamel with pearls or precious jewels.