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Jaquet Droz Paillonnée Enamel Pocket Watch


Release date:2019-09-05
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Jaquet Droz Paillonnée Enamel Pocket Watch


Inventory Number: PW1909005LO

Exhibition Time: 2019.09.30 to 2019.10.31

 

Signed Jaquet-Droz, Geneva, made for the Chinese market, circa 1780. Gold case with ruby and pearl set. Back enamel panel with geometrical paillon decoration.

On loan from the collection of Jaquet Droz, Swiss.


Glossary of watchmaking and art

Paillonné enameling is an 18th-century technique of applying layers of translucent colored enamel over very fine sheets of silver or gold resulting in dramatically bright and brilliant colors. Paillon: tiny motifs or paillettes made from gold leaf.

Jaquet Droz’s paillonné technique is a labor-intensive process. Enamel is applied on a guilloche dial and fired in a kiln at about 800°. This enameling operation is repeated several times to obtain the perfect color and ideal shine. It is slightly translucent, which gives a rich depth to the dial. The next step is to apply the paillons by hand, and the paillons together form a floral motif. They are fired together with a layer of transparent enamel (which is called “fondant”) to hold them in place.

 





 
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