A Pair of J. Ullmann & Co. Chinese Market Enamel Painting Pocket Watches

Inventory Number: PW2303002ALC&PW2303002BLC

Made circa 1890, signed J. Ullmann & Co. 41mm, gilt silver case with a pearl-set bezel. The polychrome enamel painting scene depicts a portrait of a western young lady on a blue background. A pair of matching mirror-image pocket watches with consecutive No. 57719 and No. 57720. White enamel dial decorated with scrolled flowers.

A gilt caliber with engraved patterns, lever escapement. Accompanied by the original winding key and box. Functions: hours, minutes, and center seconds.

On loan from the private collection of Mr. Yeung Sau Wong.

Brand History

Jacques Ullmann & Co. of La Chaux-de-Fonds were registered in 1896, and traded in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tianjin of China, they purchased the Bovet in 1918, and went out of business in 1932.

Glossary of Material Terms

Enamel

A vitreous substance which main component is silica mixed with oxides (transition metals) that create a vast palette of colors. Enamel is used to decorate metal surfaces, gold, silver, and copper.

Painting on the Enamel

A gold or copper plate is coated with base enamel and then fired. The colors are in powder form which the enamel-painter dilutes as and when they are needed using an oily or semi-oily essence, before applying them with a fine brush. Each color is dried and then fired before the next is applied. A work can be fired numerous times.

The Chinese market pocket watch is the pocket watch that was specially made for the Chinese market in the 18th to 19th centuries by European watchmakers. It was originally used as a tribute to the Qing Dynasty royal family and spread among the public gradually. Many cases were generally made of silver, brass, gilt-brass, or silver, and decorated with painted enamel with pearls or precious jewels.

The movements are so-called “Chinese Caliber”, and many of them were engraved with beautiful patterns such as scrolled flowers and foliage, the designs were significantly recognizable. From the Chinese collectors ‘view, these kinds of pocket watches are called "The big-eight pieces”. (There is such a statement that the movement was usually designed to consist of a barrel and seven main components, eight pieces in total, and “eight" is considered as the homonym of "fortune" in Chinese, so they were gradually known as "The big-eight pieces" from the 19th century in Chinese.