Vaucher Chinese Market Enamel Painting Pocket Watch

Inventory Number: PW2303004LC

Made in Fleurier, Switzerland, circa 1840, signed Vaucher. 34mm, 18K yellow gold case with pearl-set. Pendant decorated with white and black enamels. The painted enamel scene depicts flower bouquets on a solid red background, specially made for the Chinese market. Case no. 60, white enamel dial with Roman numerals, small seconds, and signed Vaucher/Fleurier at 6 o’clock. Chinese caliber with cylinder escapement. 

Functions: hours, minutes, and small seconds.

On loan from the private collection of Mr. Yeung Sau Wong.

Brand History

Vaucher was also one of Fleurier watchmakers active in the Chinese market during the 19th century, like other Fleurier firms, for example, the Bovets, the Dimiers, and the Juvets should be mentioned as well.  The first Vaucher firm to trade with China was founded by Charles-Henri-Vaucher of Fleurier (1793-1865), his ancestor David-Jean-Jacques-Henri Vaucher is considered the first maker of watches in Fleurier (as of 1732). Charles started sending watches to Canton by 1838 but soon failed due to the political crisis. Georges-Alfred Vaucher (1795-1840), another grandson of David-Jean-Jacques-Henri Vaucher, founded the firm Vaucher Neveu and did business with Italy and the Near East. Around 1843, his sons Alfred-Louis (1817-1880), Edouard-Auguste (1819-1847), and James-Henri (1824-1871) established the firm of Vaucher Frères. The company also did business in Shanghai and sold musical boxes, olive oil, tea, and so on. The business began to decline in 1860 and entirely ceased in 1866 due to the Taiping Rebellion.

Glossary of Material Terms

Enamel

A vitreous substance which main component is silica mixed with oxides (transition metals) that create a vast palette of colors. Enamel is used to decorate metal surfaces, gold, silver, and copper.

Painting on the Enamel

A gold or copper plate is coated with base enamel and then fired. The colors are in powder form which the enamel-painter dilutes as and when they are needed using an oily or semi-oily essence, before applying them with a fine brush. Each color is dried and then fired before the next is applied. A work can be fired numerous times.

The Chinese market pocket watch is the pocket watch that was specially made for the Chinese market in the 18th to 19th centuries by European watchmakers. It was originally used as a tribute to the Qing Dynasty royal family and spread among the public gradually. Many cases were generally made of silver, brass, gilt-brass, or silver, and decorated with painted enamel with pearls or precious jewels.

The movements are so-called “Chinese Caliber”, and many of them were engraved with beautiful patterns such as scrolled flowers and foliage, the designs were significantly recognizable. From the Chinese collectors ‘view, these kinds of pocket watches are called "The big-eight pieces”. (There is such a statement that the movement was usually designed to consist of a barrel and seven main components, eight pieces in total, and “eight" is considered as the homonym of "fortune" in Chinese, so they were gradually known as "The big-